Srinagar

34° 4' 52.63" N 74° 48' 12.69" E [34.0813, 74.8035] (KML)

The city has become safer to travel since 2003, however the streets are still lined with armed soldiers. Any building of value will also have a sandbag bunker and razor wire for protection. If arriving from the airport, you will also notice hundreds of large, Western style vacation homes. These were built before the current conflict when domestic travel to Kashmir was booming. Currently most of these homes are empty, being squatted in or have been usurped for military use. Most people visit the city in the summer months. The temperature at this time is cool to pleasant. Light sweaters may be needed for occasional cool nights in the summertime. In winter, you will need full winter gear and expect snow and few places to have hot water.

Many people take the train to Jammu [S] followed by a taxi or bus ride to Srinagar [M]. The journey from Jammu to Srinagar is costlier in the summers because the capital is being shifted from Jammu to Srinagar on both the state buses and Sumos. State buses are safer but take more time and are a bit uncomfortable.

Foreign travelers on visas are required to register upon arrival at the airport or to their hotel or houseboat.

Flights are operated by Jet Airways, Air Deccan, SpiceJet, Kingfisher Airlines, Go Air, Jet Lite and Indian Airlines [1] from Delhi [M] and Mumbai [M] to Srinagar [M], with or without a stopover at Jammu [S]. The frequency is once or twice a day by each airline. The cost is approx Rs. 2,500 from Jammu, Rs. 2,500-5,000 from Delhi one way and higher from Mumbai, depending on the season. The airport is still quite small but the expanded terminal is expected to open soon. It is also still heavily fortified and expect to see many soldiers with guns. Winter flights can easily be canceled due to weather conditions. Tickets are easy to purchase in town, but the airport requires a ticket for entrance. A taxi into town should be Rs. 550 and direct to Gulmarg [S] is 1,500-2,000.

Hiring a TATA Sumo SUV (fits up to 9 people, or 5 comfortably plus luggage) from Jammu [S] costs approximately Rs.1,900-2,700 depending on time of year or even time of day. To reduce costs many people choose not to take an exclusive taxi, and share the Sumo taxi with other travelers. This costs about Rs.150-400 per person. For a comfortable trip, try for a seat in the middle row - the front bucket seat is (sometimes uncomfortably) shared by 2 people, and the far back could be quite bumpy as the highway is full of mountainous roads. The journey takes around 8 hours.

J&K State Road Transport Corporation (J&KSRTC) operates fairly comfortable buses from Jammu [S] costing around Rs 150 and do the journey in around 12 hours. 2 day buses run between Srinagar [M] and Leh [M] staying overnight in Kargil [S].

There are also direct buses from Delhi [M] taking almost 24 hours to reach Srinagar [M].

Auto-rickshaws can be found everywhere. Taxis and buses area also available. Motorcycles can also be rented for enthusiasts.

Negotiate a price with a rickshaw driver before getting in, or just act like you know and pay the driver upon arrival. Drivers usually don't speak English but there will always be a passer-by to help translate for you.

At time of writing (4/10/09) a rickshaw from Nigeen Lake to Boulevard is approx. 70Rs depending on negotiation skills.

The Mughal Gardens [S]: With terraced lawns, cascading fountains, paint-box-bright flowerbeds with the panorama of the Dal in front of them - the three Mughal Gardens of Chesmashahi, Nishat and Shalimar are the Mughal Emperors' concept of paradise and are today very popular places for picnics and excursions. The beauty of these gardens is at their best during spring but the Mughal structure of these gardens lends them a unique sense of beauty even when the flowers are not blossoming.

• Nishat Bagh. Situated on the banks of the Dal Lake, with the Zabarwan Mountains as its backdrop, (11 km. from TRC), this 'garden of bliss' commands a magnificent view of the lake and the snow capped Pir Panjal mountain range which stands far away to the west of the valley. Nishat was designed in 1633 AD by Asaf Khan, brother of Nur Jehan.  

• Shalimar Bagh. the Mughal garden in front of the Dal lake built by Emperor Jahangir.  

• Chashmashahi. is another beautiful Mughal garden.  

• Hazratbal Mosque. the white mosque is breathtakingly beautiful but be careful, as women can enter only the first part of the mosque. Also take a walk through the adjacent market area with a range of great fresh food and a thousand things deep fried.  

• Ziarati Hazrati Youza Asouph. in the Khanyar area, about 150 meters NW of Dastgir Saheb mosque & shrine. This tomb, also known as Roza Bal [S], is believed by some to be the tomb of Jesus (part of the larger theory that he survived the crucifixion and made his way to Kashmir where he lived until at least the age of 100). It has been made popular by recent books such as Jesus Lived in India by Holger Kersten among others. It's down a little side road - ask around, pretty much anyone in the area can point you in the right direction.  

• Shankaracharya Mandir. is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva on a hilltop. It can be reached by a car or taxi. For security reasons, no cameras or cellphones are allowed within the temple and you are supposed to leave them in the vehicle before entering the temple premises. Cigarrates, liquor are to be deposited with the police personnel before the ascent of the hill as these items are against Hindu religion.  
• Pari Mahal. Dont miss the breathtaking views of the city from here  

All the hotels organize excursions (1, 2, 4 days) to see the Himalayan mountains. Beside that package tours by JKTDC can be a good option.

Go for a Shikara ride in the Dal lake which costs around Rs. 150 (off season) - Rs. 500 (peak season) for the whole Shikara. For better views and a more peaceful ride in an area devoid of other tourists, walk up a fair bit of distance till you can see the fountain and ask the Shikara rider to take you for a ride to the fountain. It costs Rs. 300 (off season) - Rs. 600 (peak season). Make sure you bargain a little, especially in off season. If you are staying longer, you could go on shikara rides more than once... each time to a different part of the lake. A must see is the "village" in the lake. Ask for a ride to the side where locals live and see the floating vegetable market. The market is usually operational only at sunrise and is easiest organised through an agent or your hotel/houseboat.

• You can buy nice leather products, or jewellery.

• Cashmere (Pashmina) shawls have been manufactured in Kashmir for thousands of years. Pashmina Shawls are very popular items for sale in the Valley, but make sure to test the quality before purchasing. The test for a 100% pashmina has been warmth, feel and the passing of the shawl through a wedding ring. Costs on a true pashmina can vary wildly, but usually start around 8000Rs. Secondly, the weave pattern on a good Pashmina is fainter than on a "silk Pashmina" or other wool Pashmina. There is also lower grades of pashmina known as Semi-Pashmina (10-50% Pashmina wool) and Half-Pashmina (50% pashmina wool) which are still of an exceptional quality but much lower price (1000-3000Rs). Also check if they are machine woven or hand woven (look for irregularities in the wool to spot a hand woven), hand woven are stronger due to the density of the weave and cost more.

• Recommended pashmina store is Kashmir Shawl Museum [S] which is a labour cooperative in association with the J&K government. The guys there will take you through in detail the types of pashminas you can buy (and how to test them) and are fantastic in that they don't negotiate but offer a set price that is the best in town. They are on the 1st floor (look for a tiny staircase heading up and a big 1st floor sign) of the Auquaf Building at Dalgate at the end of The Boulevard in the centre of town, near Dhar Medicate. Ph 0194 - 242 4891.

• You can also buy embroidered felt mats called Namdahs but the colours of the wool may be a bit too bright in most shops. The Government Emporia supplies might be better than the other private shops.

• There are also chainstitch rugs in two styles - English design or Kilim design - it will be evident what is meant when you see them.

• Carpets.

• Paper Machie products are also quite unique to Kashmir with colourful motifs and design on them. They are seen everywhere and resemble pottery in shape and design.

• John International, 172 Old Gagribal Road (Near Nehru Park), ☎ 2477640. Manufacturers and exporters of famous Kashmiri hand made Pashmina shawls and exporters of saffron  

There are a number of restaurants and cafes in Srinagar [M]. Most of the good ones are located in Lal chowk or on Boulevard along the banks of the Dal Lake. Most of the restaurants will serve Kashmiri, Indian, Mughlai and 'Indianized' Chinese dishes. Some pure veg restaurants are also located along Boulevard. Make sure you try dishes like Rogan-gosht (meat cooked in red gravy), Gushtaba(soft meat balls cooked in natural yoghurt), Tabakmaaz(deep fried ribs of a lamb) and Kanti(small chunks of meat cooked with a lot of onions).

In addition to these, one can find numerous bakeries in the city. Kashmiris are very fond of bakery products especially pasteries and cakes and you can find these bakeries very crowded especially around the times of major festivals. The more famous bakeries include Mughal Darbar, Jee Enn Sons and Hattrick.

Another popular local delicacy is called seekh-tuji. It consists of marinated meat pieces which are freshly barbecued and eaten with chutney. Most of these vendors are located in the Khayaam region of the city. This place is usually teeming with the youth especially in the evenings.

Enjoy the grilled mutton available in Srinagar [M]. This is reffered to as a "tilli" or "tekh" and mostly eaten by locals. You can find this at one spot facing dal lake too.

Kahwah is a traditional green tea recipe from Kashmir. The tea is made from green tea leaves with saffron strands, cinnamon bark and cardamom pods.Some varieties are made as a herbal infusion only, without the green tea leaves. Generally, it is served with sugar or honey, and crushed nuts, usually almonds or walnuts. There is another form of tea that is quite famous amongst the locals, its called 'Namkeen Chai' or 'Nun Chai'. It is pink in color and is also called Pink Tea. It is made from black tea, cardamom, various spices, salt and bicarbonate of soda. Also people like nune toath and dum toath which are very famous among sufis. Nunetoath is nunechai without milk and Dumtoath is strong form of Kahwa.

If searching for a beer or other drink there is a small bottle shop on the Boulevard. It's at the base of a hotel about halfway up the street and looks like a mini-fort knox. Ask people on the street and they'll point you in the right direction.

Srinagar [M] is popular for its houseboats, which do not float free around the lake, but are anchored off-shore. It is a great and unique way to enjoy your stay in the city. Houseboats are accessible either by road,or by a short "Shikara" boat ride. Each houseboat usually has 2-5 bedrooms plus bath, dining room, living room, upper deck (good for sunbathing).

Many travelers tell stories of bad experiences while staying on a houseboat, others enjoy their stay greatly. To avoid bad experiences do not pre-book a houseboat before arriving. With the security situation, the majority are empty and you should be able to get a better price in person, and to get a better feeling of if you'll like the place and the owners. Boats with land access have the advantage of allowing you to leave if you feel uncomfortable, or just like going for a walk, although they tend to be noisier.

There are houseboats on Dal Lake and Nagin Lake. These can cost anything from Rs. 1000 (March 2008) - Rs. 5000 depending upon the time of the year. Houseboats on Nagin lake are upscale and more expensive but are much more beautiful, and the Nagin lake location is serene. Price on Nageen Lake per person in September 2005 was 500 rupees per night including 2 meals. Expect to pay up to 3,000 for a couple on the deluxe boats. Boats on the Jhelum river are cheaper yet, but still comfortable, and close to the bus station, good if you are just transiting Srinagar [M] to or from Ladakh [S].

Be sure to take a 1 hour boat tour of the lake inlets to get a nice glimpse of life and wildlife along the lake. Its averaged at about Rupees 300 to 500. A few areas are geared up for attracting tourists, but most much of the area is still untouched.

There are a wide range of hotels around Dal Lake. Prices vary from Rupees 500 to 5,000.

• United Continents Group, Bishember Nagar, RIEC, Near Ikhwan Hotel, Srinagar [M] 190001 Kashmir, India, ☎ +91 (194) 2474814, [2]. INR 3,500.00.  

• Hotel Ishfan [S], Kohnkhan, Dalgate, Srinagar [M]. Mid-range hotel with double room starting at Rs. 2500. In off-season, rooms can even be bargained upto Rs. 400. The in-house restaurant serves delicious North Indian food as well as chicken delicacies.

• Blooming Dale [S]:Another place at Dalgate(centre of Srinagar [M]) near Dal Lake is neat small place with a lush green lawn suitable for families and individuals.This is the place you can experience the typical kashmir hospitality.

• Young Bombay [S], A houseboat in the middle of the Dal Lake, in the Golden Lake part (close to the Boulevard). Actually a complex of several boats of various classes, from deluxe to C, in attractive price classes. Spacious rooms with bathrooms, lake views, cable TV, Internet, original Kashmiri cuisine and European food prepared by the owner's family. You could sometimes encounter the owner, Mohammed Gossani, on the lakeshore, or contact him at youngbombay@yahoo.com or myspace.com/houseboat_srinagar for advance reservations and airport or bus station pickups. Particularly many French tourists, with the charismatic long-term French resident Victoria taking care of good conversation.

• New Shaheen [S], A house boat at Raj Bagh Ghat is a luxury and economical and as well as serene for those who wish to stay in house boat yet far from noisy area.In off season you can bargain upto Rs.600 for a double room with breakfast and dinner inclusive.So for those of you who wish to stay economically be sure to visit this place,a family with beautiful and smiling faces will serve you.Ph no

• Butt's Clermont Houseboat, One of the best addresses in the valley: the secluded northwest edge of Dal Lake. Butt’s houseboats have had some very famous guests, including Ravi Shankar, Galbraith, Rockefeller, and Yehudi Menuhin!

• House Boat Taj Mahal [M]: A very beautiful House Boat located offshore in the open area of Dal Lake gives a perfect view of mountains and the life around in the lake. Owner Mohd. Yaseen Dangola is very helpful and can be reached at 0091-9419061672/0091 (0) 194-2480271

• Swiss Hotel Kashmir. [S] [3] In the foot hills of Shankrachraya Temple and stones throw distance from world famous Dal Lake is this beautifully located hotel. It is a commission free hotel. Tel:0194 2472766 & 2477640. swisshotelkashmir@yahoo.co.in.

• Hotel Sadaf-The Pearl, 45,Exchange Road,Regal Chowk,Srinagar [M], (sadafhotel@gmail.com), [4]. checkin: 12noon; checkout: 12 noon. Despite being a centrally located hotel his hotel is quite quiet. Good mountain views, 3 minute drive from the Dal Lake and the local bus stand and 7 km from the airport. 1800.  

There are also some lovely houseboats on quieter and beautiful Nagin Lake.

• Peacock Houseboats [S] [http:/www.peacockhouseboats.com]. Email: peacockhouseboats@gmail.com. These houseboats are on Nagin Lake across from the Nagin Club. The views are breathtaking. Made of cedar and furnished with antique wooden furniture. Each houseboat has a carpeted sitting room and dining room. Bedrooms have western bathrooms attached. Cushioned veranda looks out over lake. Western breakfast included and choice of Kashmiri, Indian or Western lunches/dinners are served by the houseboy. Guests are treated like friends. The owner, Bashir Ahmed is very kind and helpful and can arrange tours.

• Leh [M]/Ladakh [S] Jeeps leave daily except Sunday taking 2days with an overnight stop in Kargil [S].

• Jammu [S] Jeeps leave daily as well as buses, be aware that J&K bus company quite often go on strike. Jeep costs 350-450Rs and takes approx 8hrs

• Zunnamar

Text content was last edited at 11:02, on 6 May 2010 by Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel. Based on work by Dr Munir Malik, Stefan Ertmann, Simran Srivastav, Ben Jeffreys, Jani Patokallio and Ravikiran Rao, Wikitravel user(s) Texugo, Burmesedays, Travelworld and Huttite, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others. A list of contributors is available at the original article on Wikitravel. This text content is available under Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0.