Ranong

12° 49' 58.69" N 101° 26' 8.57" E [12.833, 101.4357] (KML)

A small border town with limited tourist influence and hence still quaintly Thai. Border access via boat to Kawthoung [S] in Myanmar allows visas to be renewed.

Ranong [M] is the first southern province on the western coast, located 568km from Bangkok [M]. It is also known for the long rainy period, which lasts for 8 months each year. Ranong occupies an area of 3,298 square kilometres, with the Kra Isthmus which is the narrowest part of the Malay Peninsula, and is bordered by Myanmar and the Indian Ocean to the west. Within its compact area, Ranong contains various natural attractions and is blessed with hot springs and unspoilt mangrove forests.

Air Asia has canceled flights from Bangkok [M]. The nearest train station is at Chumphon [S].

Minibuses from Surat Thani [M] cost 180 baht and take around 3 hours. They arrive opposite the main bus station about 1km out of the town centre which is served by motorcycle taxis.

Numerous and relatively frequent full-size buses of various classes connect with Chumphon [S] and Bangkok [M] and all major points inbetween; with Phuket [M] and Krabi [S] via Takua Pa [S] and Khao Lak [S] and other key points in Phang Nga [M] Province (most direct route to Trang [S] and Satun [M] is via Krabi); and with Surat Thani [M] which acts as the gateway to just about everywhere else.

Hundreds of longtail boats connect Ranong [M] with Kawthoung [S] in Myanmar, and take about 20 minutes to cross. They can be chartered individually or shared with other travellers and/or locals.

Hourly boats (a little larger, also taking about 20 minutes) ferry gamblers to and from Thahtay Kyun, a small island adjacent to Kawthoung [S] where the Andaman Club [1] casino and golf resort has its own immigration facilities.

Ranong [M] has a few things to see:

• Bald Hill [S]
• Hot Springs [S]
• Ranong [M] Canyon
• Waterfalls

However, Ranong's islands is quite specular, especially Ko Phayam [S] and Kam Islands.

Visa run - is a likely reason to come to Ranong [M]. You can catch a songthaew from the market on the main road. It costs 10 baht to get to Saphan Pla, the fishing port providing the link to Kawthoung [S] (aka Victoria Point), a fishing town in Myanmar. Most songthaews end up here eventually, though some follow a longer route than others. You will either be dropped across the road from the immigration office, or at a small roadside cafe a few metres away. Your first stop is to go the immigration office where you must formally exit Thailand. Get your passport stamped and then head for the pier.

It is likely you will be offered a boat by touts. A longtail boat should cost around 300 baht (return), whether you're on your own or in a group. The price you pay for a boat should be negotiated before you get in. There have been stories of tourists being charged up to 1,000 baht. There is also a big boat which is used by more organised visa runs, and a small-scale trip via longtail usually coordinated by a white haired chap in a gold coloured pickup who hangs around the bus station. Longtails are faster and fewer people mean less waiting time at the various immigration points. The big boat is slower and takes longer because of the number of passports to be checked, but can work out cheaper.

You will need US$10 (in the form of US dollar banknotes) to enter Myanmar and they like the notes to be in top condition, especially with no writing on them. Local touts sell US dollar notes, but at very uncompetitive rates. On weekends the Myanmar authorities also require photocopies of your passport done by a small shop at the immigration office for 10 baht.

The boat will first go to a Thai Immigration checkpoint, and the driver will take your passport to be inspected, then to a Myanmar Immigration checkpoint a few km later. For some reason they don't need to see your passport there. When you arrive in Kawthoung [S] there will be plenty of touts offering cheap whiskey/cigarettes/guided tours. You must first enter the country by going the immigration office to the left as you exit the short pier. It is here you hand over your $10 and tell them (they have English) that you're a day-tripper. In fact they'll sell you a visa which entitles you to stay for up to 2 weeks. This should be given serious consideration, Kawthoung would be well worth a few days. If you're just staying the day, Myanmar immigration will stamp you in and out in one go so you won't have to go back there again on your way out.

You'll probably be offered Valium and Viagra by touts, and helped towards shops selling cheap alcohol and cigarettes. There is a limit on what can be brought back legally, and the boat may be checked on the return journey. You'll also be offered a one-hour sight-seeing trip on a moped from the touts. At the end of the trip you may be told that the price you agreed was for the moped only and that you need to pay further for the guide himself. It's well worth spending some time in the village even if you're just doing the day trip (have a Myanmar beer!).

After the boat trip back, you must return to the Thai immigration office to formally re-enter the country. You should get a lift with an arranged trip, but it's a 10 baht motorcycle taxi or songthaew ride, or a 10 minute walk.

By far the best Restaurant in Ranong [M] is Sophons Hideaway situated on the main street (Ruangrat Road). This Restaurant has been established for 7 years now and has a very good reputation in town. This is the Restaurant of choice for the more affluent Thais and when they have a good crowd (often) you can really have a good night out. The Thais enjoy mixing with foriegners at this Restaurant. They serve both western and thai foods.

• Asia Hotel [S], Market Street (300 baht)

• Bakhla Bar [S], on Market Street two doors down from the 7-11, opposite the first main right turn. Mattress-on-floor rooms with shared bathrooms at 100-120 baht.

• Kiwi Orchid [S], Yellow building located close to the bus station (behind the tourist information building). 250 baht for a room (double / twin) with fan and shared bathroom. Don't buy boat tickets from here, as you will be charged 100 baht per person to be driven 10 minutes to the ferry. Walk round to the bus station and take sawnthang no. 2 to close to the ferry stop. Also, do not book accomodation on the islands through them, as contrary to what you might be told, there is plenty of accomodation available.

• Sintavee Hotel [S], on Market Street, 100m north of market. Chinese run and sometimes used for short-time action by the local working girls and their clients. Large double room, private bathroom for 200 baht.

• Royal Princess [S], 41/144 Tamuang Road, Tambol Kao Nives, Amphur Muang, Ranong [M] 85000 (well signposted), tel: +66 7783 5240-44, (fax: +66 7783 5238) [2] - best hotel in Ranong, with rooms from around 1500 baht.

• Kawthoung [S], Myanmar
• Ko Chang [M] - not to be confused with the larger Ko Chang in Eastern Thailand
• Ko Phayam

Text content was last edited at 02:30, on 29 April 2010 by Wikitravel user Burmesedays. Based on work by Peeraphol Trongkamolmas, Wikitravel user(s) Globe-trotter and Morph, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others. A list of contributors is available at the original article on Wikitravel. This text content is available under Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0.